Bread is so important in the cooking of the Middle East and there are breads that are particular for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The bakers in Amman come from the many countries that surround Jordan, and many are refugees, but bread is a reminder of who you are and where you are from. This recipe is based on a bread called taboun from Palestine: chicken spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg and sumac is placed on lightly caramelised onions and is traditionally baked in a bread oven. All the flavours of the chicken and onions seep into the bread to make a heavenly dish that you just have to dig into and eat with your hands!